Paul
08-29-2005, 02:44 AM
Why: When getting new tyres (yes, that's aussie spelling) if you take in rims that are off the bike you will normally be charged less for the fitting. With the wheels removed you can also check/adjust/clean other parts
Tools required: Paddock stands (front and rear), large socket for rear axle removal (Yamaha generally 32mm - measure to confirm), large hex key (older R1's)/large socket (newer R1's) for front axle removal (Yamaha generally 19mm - measure to confirm), breaker bar, ratchet (optional), hex key set (5mm - 10mm), open ended spanner set (5mm - 14mm), socket set (8mm - 14mm), plastic coated mallet (optional), gloves (optional)
NOTE: when a wheel is removed, never apply it's brake.
Firstly make sure that you are positioned on a flat and level surface.
Before raising the bike on the paddock stand I will initially loosen all fasteners that will be removed in the process (note: LOOSEN - no more then 2 full rotations). This is so you can use sufficient force without fear of knocking your bike over if it were on the paddock stands. These fasteners are the brake caliper bolts and axles (secondary retention bolt/s on the front done first).
You can then raise the bike onto the paddock stands.
-------------------- Rear removal --------------------
We will begin with the rear wheel. Some motorcycles can have the rear brake caliper left on when removing the rear wheel, over time you will be able to determine wether or not you will have to remove it but we will cover this process with its removal.
Begin by removing the brake caliper bolts, then sliding the caliper off to rest it on the outside of the rear paddock stand. If you want to prevent any scratching you can slip a rag or sock over the caliper. Now remove the axle, being sure to support the base of the wheel with your foot or a block. With the wheel freely moving push it forward so you can pull the chain off. Rest the chain over the swingarm to prevent it picking up anything from the ground and to aid with wheel replacement.
The rear wheel can now be removed. If you are taking it into the shop for tyre fitting you can pull out the sprocket, any loose spacers and cush drives (rubber components)
-------------------- Front removal --------------------
Begin by removing the brake caliper bolts, then sliding the calipers off rest them on the outside of the front paddock stand. If you want to prevent any scratching you can slip a rag or sock over the calipers. Next, loosen the secondary retention (pinch bolts) on the bottom of the forks. Now remove the axle, being sure to support the base of the wheel with your foot or a block.
The front wheel can now be removed. If you are taking it into the shop for tyre fitting you can pull out any loose spacers.
-------------------- Rear installation --------------------
Firstly, to make axle insertion easier, adjust the chain tensioners forward. If you are unsure of how to do this look for a brief description here (http://www.r1messagenet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1027).
With the wheel complete (spacers, sprocket, etc fitted) place it into the swingarm as fully forward as possible. Take the chain in the left hand and wrap it around the sprocket. Ensure that the axle has a small amount of grease applied. Pull the wheel rearward and upward and slide the axle through (this could be a little difficult so take your time to align the wheel, particularly spacers, correctly). Adjust the chain tensioners and tighten the rear axle nut found in these steps (http://www.r1messagenet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1027).
Keeping the brake pads spread sufficiently, slide the brake caliper on (it may be helpful to rotate the wheel when doing this. Tighten up the brake caliper bolts to 40 Nm. Apply the brake to ensure that it works properly.
The rear wheel is now ready to go.
-------------------- Front installation --------------------
Ensure that the wheel is around the right way (arrow on rim/tyre should point in the direction of wheel rotation). With the wheel complete (spacers, etc fitted) place it in between the forks (this could be a little difficult so take your time to align the wheel, particularly spacers, correctly). Ensure that the axle has a small amount of grease applied. Slide the axle through and tighten to 72 Nm. Insert the pinch bolt/s and tighten to about 20 Nm.
Keeping the brake pads spread sufficiently, slide the brake calipers on (it may be helpful to rotate the wheel when doing this. Tighten up the brake caliper bolts to 40 Nm. Apply the brakes to ensure that it works properly.
The front wheel is now ready to go.
You are now ready to ride :D
© Paul - 2005 All Rights Reserved
Tools required: Paddock stands (front and rear), large socket for rear axle removal (Yamaha generally 32mm - measure to confirm), large hex key (older R1's)/large socket (newer R1's) for front axle removal (Yamaha generally 19mm - measure to confirm), breaker bar, ratchet (optional), hex key set (5mm - 10mm), open ended spanner set (5mm - 14mm), socket set (8mm - 14mm), plastic coated mallet (optional), gloves (optional)
NOTE: when a wheel is removed, never apply it's brake.
Firstly make sure that you are positioned on a flat and level surface.
Before raising the bike on the paddock stand I will initially loosen all fasteners that will be removed in the process (note: LOOSEN - no more then 2 full rotations). This is so you can use sufficient force without fear of knocking your bike over if it were on the paddock stands. These fasteners are the brake caliper bolts and axles (secondary retention bolt/s on the front done first).
You can then raise the bike onto the paddock stands.
-------------------- Rear removal --------------------
We will begin with the rear wheel. Some motorcycles can have the rear brake caliper left on when removing the rear wheel, over time you will be able to determine wether or not you will have to remove it but we will cover this process with its removal.
Begin by removing the brake caliper bolts, then sliding the caliper off to rest it on the outside of the rear paddock stand. If you want to prevent any scratching you can slip a rag or sock over the caliper. Now remove the axle, being sure to support the base of the wheel with your foot or a block. With the wheel freely moving push it forward so you can pull the chain off. Rest the chain over the swingarm to prevent it picking up anything from the ground and to aid with wheel replacement.
The rear wheel can now be removed. If you are taking it into the shop for tyre fitting you can pull out the sprocket, any loose spacers and cush drives (rubber components)
-------------------- Front removal --------------------
Begin by removing the brake caliper bolts, then sliding the calipers off rest them on the outside of the front paddock stand. If you want to prevent any scratching you can slip a rag or sock over the calipers. Next, loosen the secondary retention (pinch bolts) on the bottom of the forks. Now remove the axle, being sure to support the base of the wheel with your foot or a block.
The front wheel can now be removed. If you are taking it into the shop for tyre fitting you can pull out any loose spacers.
-------------------- Rear installation --------------------
Firstly, to make axle insertion easier, adjust the chain tensioners forward. If you are unsure of how to do this look for a brief description here (http://www.r1messagenet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1027).
With the wheel complete (spacers, sprocket, etc fitted) place it into the swingarm as fully forward as possible. Take the chain in the left hand and wrap it around the sprocket. Ensure that the axle has a small amount of grease applied. Pull the wheel rearward and upward and slide the axle through (this could be a little difficult so take your time to align the wheel, particularly spacers, correctly). Adjust the chain tensioners and tighten the rear axle nut found in these steps (http://www.r1messagenet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1027).
Keeping the brake pads spread sufficiently, slide the brake caliper on (it may be helpful to rotate the wheel when doing this. Tighten up the brake caliper bolts to 40 Nm. Apply the brake to ensure that it works properly.
The rear wheel is now ready to go.
-------------------- Front installation --------------------
Ensure that the wheel is around the right way (arrow on rim/tyre should point in the direction of wheel rotation). With the wheel complete (spacers, etc fitted) place it in between the forks (this could be a little difficult so take your time to align the wheel, particularly spacers, correctly). Ensure that the axle has a small amount of grease applied. Slide the axle through and tighten to 72 Nm. Insert the pinch bolt/s and tighten to about 20 Nm.
Keeping the brake pads spread sufficiently, slide the brake calipers on (it may be helpful to rotate the wheel when doing this. Tighten up the brake caliper bolts to 40 Nm. Apply the brakes to ensure that it works properly.
The front wheel is now ready to go.
You are now ready to ride :D
© Paul - 2005 All Rights Reserved