Paul
08-28-2005, 08:31 PM
Why: Preventative chain maintenance is quick, easy, will lengthen your chain life and save you money in the long run
Tools required: Paddock stands (rear - optional), large socket for rear axle removal (Yamaha generally 32mm - measure to confirm), breaker bar, ratchet (optional) open ended spanner set (5mm - 14mm)
Firstly make sure that you are positioned on a flat and level surface.
Before raising the bike on the paddock stand I will initially loosen all fasteners that will be removed in the process (note: LOOSEN - no more then 2 full rotations). This is so you can use sufficient force without fear of knocking your bike over if it were on the paddock stand. This fastener is the axle itself.
You can then raise the bike onto the paddock stand (if owned). To loosen the chain tensioners so that they are ready to be adjusted use your open ended spanners to loosen nut A. Once this is done on both sides of the bike you can begin adjustment. This is done by turning nut B.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~paul.barker/mypic11.JPG
Now you will need to check your individual workshop manual for specific chain free play advice, but as a genral rule 3 - 5 centimetres or 1 1/2 inches is ideal. The free play is the distance the chain moves vertically when checked on the lower linkages, halfway between both sprockets. You will need to algin both sides so that they show the same spacing indicators when this free play is achieved, this is to ensure that the axle is properly aligned.
Once you believe this process is done you can double check that the axle is aligned 100% by using a second method of measure. To do this slide a narrow rod through the swingarm pivot and then measure the distance from the centre of the rear axle to this rod. Both sides should be the same distance, if this is not the case then make the necessary adjustments.
Now that the chain is properly tensioned and the axle is aligned it is time to tighten everything back up again. First start with the chain tensioners themselves by keeping nut B steady with one spanner and tightening nut A back onto the swingarm. This does not need to be overly tight, simply bring the nut firmly against the swingarm then a further 1/4 turn will be sufficient. Then tighten the axle nut back up ensuring that it does not move from its new position. The torque for this nut is 150 Nm, if you don't have a torque wrench then tighten the nut back up with the ratchet till it is snug with the swing arm then use the breaker bar to tighten it further using about half of your maximum effort then it will be sufficient (if you are stronger then aveage use less effort and vice versa).
You are now ready to ride :D
© Paul - 2005 All Rights Reserved
Tools required: Paddock stands (rear - optional), large socket for rear axle removal (Yamaha generally 32mm - measure to confirm), breaker bar, ratchet (optional) open ended spanner set (5mm - 14mm)
Firstly make sure that you are positioned on a flat and level surface.
Before raising the bike on the paddock stand I will initially loosen all fasteners that will be removed in the process (note: LOOSEN - no more then 2 full rotations). This is so you can use sufficient force without fear of knocking your bike over if it were on the paddock stand. This fastener is the axle itself.
You can then raise the bike onto the paddock stand (if owned). To loosen the chain tensioners so that they are ready to be adjusted use your open ended spanners to loosen nut A. Once this is done on both sides of the bike you can begin adjustment. This is done by turning nut B.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~paul.barker/mypic11.JPG
Now you will need to check your individual workshop manual for specific chain free play advice, but as a genral rule 3 - 5 centimetres or 1 1/2 inches is ideal. The free play is the distance the chain moves vertically when checked on the lower linkages, halfway between both sprockets. You will need to algin both sides so that they show the same spacing indicators when this free play is achieved, this is to ensure that the axle is properly aligned.
Once you believe this process is done you can double check that the axle is aligned 100% by using a second method of measure. To do this slide a narrow rod through the swingarm pivot and then measure the distance from the centre of the rear axle to this rod. Both sides should be the same distance, if this is not the case then make the necessary adjustments.
Now that the chain is properly tensioned and the axle is aligned it is time to tighten everything back up again. First start with the chain tensioners themselves by keeping nut B steady with one spanner and tightening nut A back onto the swingarm. This does not need to be overly tight, simply bring the nut firmly against the swingarm then a further 1/4 turn will be sufficient. Then tighten the axle nut back up ensuring that it does not move from its new position. The torque for this nut is 150 Nm, if you don't have a torque wrench then tighten the nut back up with the ratchet till it is snug with the swing arm then use the breaker bar to tighten it further using about half of your maximum effort then it will be sufficient (if you are stronger then aveage use less effort and vice versa).
You are now ready to ride :D
© Paul - 2005 All Rights Reserved